![]() With that being said, find the correct quartz post length by using the chart below. In other words, if the post hits the glass, the hands will not be able to move. Therefore it is important to measure the quartz post length correctly. Sometimes if the clock has glass over the face it is possible for the post to hit it. Hence, the movement will be held in place to the back of the dial (clock face) and will not move. Of course, there needs to be enough threads sticking out for the hex nut to be put on. Subsequently, the post will stick out through the front of the clock dial. It can’t be too long or the hands will not move correctly.Ĭlockworks has a variety of quartz clock movement lengths to accommodate a variety of different materials since some are wood and some are metal and some are plastic, etc.Ībove all, when replacing a quartz movement it means measuring quartz post lengths. It needs to be long enough for a small hex nut to screw onto it. The shaft with the threads needs to go through the dial/face of the clock from the back to the front. The length of the threaded portion of the post/shaft, is the measurement that you need. When working on a quartz clock movement measurement the post has to be long enough to go through whatever thickness that the clock face/dial, might be. This applies to all Clockworks quartz movements, including chiming quartz, and time only quartz movements. To clarify, the post is the part that goes through the dial (face) and mounts from the front and what is in a quartz clock movement measurement. This is so it can match up with the new quartz movement. When completing a quartz clock movement measurement, you will need to measure the post on the old movement. Altogether, these are the assembly instructions for the time only quartz clock movement into the clock case.Ĭlockworks offers multiple post lengths for quartz movements. ![]() Likewise, Quartz clock movement installation is usually very easy. Now it is out of the way and installation of the new quartz clock movement bought from Clockworks can be done. So, if this is the case, very gently pry the movement off of the back of the clock with a screwdriver. On occasion, the movement will have glue holding it in place. In essence, the movement will fall out the back of the clock dial. Then remove the hex nut that is on the post where the hands were. Every clock is different so thoroughly look your clock over to see how it was put together. ![]() Some clocks will have a glass bezel that will have to be taken off in order to get to the hands. Of course, this is done by removing the hands from the clock. Sometimes this is straightforward and sometimes it can be tricky. The first step is to get the old unit out of the way. ![]() I will report back when I have the clock back together and working.In essence, this is a quick step by step practical guide for the quartz clock movement installation. So I re-pivoted that wheel and pushed the bushing back. To make up for the missing length the brass bushing was somewhat pushed out of the wood panel. The other repair was for the escape wheel. It should be good for the next 100 years now. I disassembled the wheel, re-shaped the click and cleaned up the click wheel with a file. The click and click wheel of the strike side were very worn and not reliably functioning. There were two repairs that I noted were necessary after cleaning. The wood appeared rather dry after that, so I rubbed it with some mineral spirits and followed up with a soft brass brush. So I switched to a stiff brush and denatured alcohol (methylated spirits) and washed down the wood parts, wiping with paper towels until they remained clean. I didn't remove the strike levers from the wood frame because I was concerned that the steel "hook nails", that hold them in place, might brake when I try to remove them, with parts of them left in the wood.įor the wooden parts I tried my intended rug and acetone approach, but it turned out that the layer of grime was just too much. For parts that couldn't be de-rusted or polished on the lathe I used a stainless steel brush wheel on a Dremel. I turned out that the rust was more superficial than it seemed, so I skipped the Evaporust step and went to remove surface rust and did some polishing on the lathe. I had to add two more 10 minute cycles until the parts appeared to be clean. After 10 minutes at 50C the parts showed just some signs of cleaning, i.e. The next after cleaning in Zep fast 505 in the ultrasonic cleaner. The first picture shows them before cleaning. I disassembled the movement and cleaned the parts. I will try that next time because I already advanced further.
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